Before you start thinking that I have either gone mad or become pregnant, let me clarify that the oysters I am referring to are those with a capital “o” and not half of some twisted craving. The highly controversial Oyster card is nonetheless indispensable and, at only £1 for a multi-zone bus journey, is also one of the best values to be had around London (and no, I definitely have not been paid to say that).
Armed with our Big Brother blue badges, birthday girl Natalia and I settled in for the long ride on the 328 up to Golders Green in search of a real bagel. I had heard so much about Carmelli, the Mr Popularity of the appallingly small London bagel scene, that we carried on right past Roni’s unassuming bakery in Hampstead without pushing the stop button. About ten northern-bound minutes later, we jumped off and made our excited trek past the Polish shops and, hold on, was that a Baskin Robbins?
We couldn’t wait to get our paws on Carmelli’s buns. I mean bagels. Finally, it came into view: larger than life and on show like a real stud. The place felt a bit aloof and unfriendly; but who cares – we were about to try the hottest bagel in town!
Knowing we would give underdog Roni a sympathy taste test later, we ordered a single sesame bagel with cream cheese and hurried to Caffè Nero to unwrap this baby.
Imagine our surprise when Carmelli turned out to be too tough for its own good. The bagel was dry and hardly filling; even the cream cheese was a bland disappointment. “Hot stuff” Carmelli left us cold. All talk and no show! We’d been taken for such a ride. How could we ever trust a bakery again?!
It was hard, but we got back on that horse – the 328. After all, a girl has got to eat, and these two still had an appetite, Carmelli or not. We were doubtful, though. How exciting could shy-guy Roni’s bagels really be?
Once inside the cosy shop, we immediately felt at ease. It was welcoming and warm; and within two minutes they brought out a tray of fresh, HOT bagels. We bought a half dozen and ran to Costa Coffee. Despite the artic winds on the way, our bagels managed to stay steamy. The delicate balance of density and sweetness was ever present in this bagel, the closest I've come since those New York days. Roni had won us over with his hidden charms.
It’s comforting to know that a fine specimen of a bagel is only an Oyster away – poppy, sesame, onion or plain. Yet the everything bagel evades me still. Does that elusive pearl of style and substance – bagel and beyond – exist in this town?
The case continues.
Carmelli Bagel Bakery is at 126-128 Golders Green Road, NW11 8HB. But if I were you I'd give this guy a chance: Roni's Bagel Bakery at 250 West End Lane, NW6 1LG.


I like the brick lane bagels myself, but will give roni's a try next time I'm up that way.
Posted by: thalia | 22 March 2007 at 08:44 AM
No way! I can't believe Carmellis did you wrong. Did you get a small one or one of the larger ones? Seriously, I ate so many bagels the weekend of my experiment, and they were the best. Did you see the comments on my Bagel-round-up on Londonist? Lots of other suggestions...
http://www.londonist.com/archives/2007/01/london_bagel_ro.php
Posted by: Krista | 23 March 2007 at 07:49 PM
We shared a large one. For me Roni's had the best overall package!
Posted by: Jess | 24 March 2007 at 10:56 AM
Hey,
I'm afraid there's not much I can personally say about bagels, with them being an off-limit food, but I do know Thom and his friends are enamoured with a bagel (or "begel" - god help me) place at the top of Brick Lane. Specifically, the one nearer the top of Brick Lane. Every time we're within a one mile radius, it's an essential stop. But it may not pass muster with the New York palate...
Posted by: Claire | 26 March 2007 at 09:49 PM
I gotta agree with thalia, after spending 3 years in London a little while back, the Brick Lane ones were definitely the best i ever came across.
Thank got they are a 24 hr place to - nothing better than a bagel or 2 at 3am instead of a nasty "kebab"
Posted by: Mike | 28 March 2007 at 05:32 AM
Carmelli's are pretty good, but if you want the best, you need to go to Daniel's. It's on Finchley Road, about 5 mins north of Carmelli's. Much better, chewy, doughy, perfect.
Posted by: Silverbrow | 29 March 2007 at 12:29 AM
Jessica!!! We need to go to Brick Lane!! And then to Daniel's!!! We need a follow-up and I will sacrifice my strict no-carb diet (who are we kidding??!) to assist. No bagel in London shall be left un-tested!
(oh, Claire, we need to find you a wheat-free bagel. Jess, can we make wheat-free bagels for Claire?)
Posted by: Natalia | 29 March 2007 at 12:42 PM
I threw down the gauntlet a while ago. Some interesting comments...
http://jamfaced.blogspot.com/2006/01/brick-lane-beigel.html
Posted by: Monkey Gland | 29 March 2007 at 09:02 PM
Order in the court!
With all due respect, I have to disagree with the Brick Lane worship. To me they are just okay. The bagels I still miss and lust after are those from H&H on the Upper West Side of Manhattan. A very close second are the ones I had in Bergenfield, New Jersey. Not far behind are those in Montague Street, my old Brooklyn Heights stomping ground. Come to think of it, these three places represent three distinct areas of my New York existence, so the emotional connection should not be overlooked.
Back on these shores, I am going to have to meet this Daniel!
Posted by: Jess | 29 March 2007 at 10:31 PM
Hey girl, I'm catching up on my reading. Love this one, absolutely hilarious! If you're pregos you best be tellin' me first though! Hee Hee :O)
Posted by: You know who | 30 May 2007 at 09:14 AM
As a recently transplanted NYer and reader of your blog, I felt I was obliged to have a bagel in your honour. Not to mention that Murray's Bagels is on my way to the subway. I have to report that my bagel was very satisfying with the right balance of sweetness and chewiness! :)
Posted by: Sabrina | 13 June 2007 at 02:56 PM
As a recently transplanted NYer and reader of your blog, I felt I was obliged to have a bagel in your honour. Not to mention that Murray's Bagels is on my way to the subway. I have to report that my bagel was very satisfying with the right balance of sweetness and chewiness! :)
Posted by: Sabrina | 13 June 2007 at 02:56 PM
Thank you, Sabrina, I felt the real bagel vibes! May I please request that your next one be an egg-and-cheese on an everything bagel, please? For me.
Posted by: Jess | 13 June 2007 at 03:33 PM
OK! :) Any preferences for what kind of bagel it should be? Multigrain? Wholewheat? Sesame? Onion?
Posted by: Sabrina | 14 June 2007 at 02:33 PM
An EVERYTHING bagel, definitely. Thank you.
Posted by: Jess | 14 June 2007 at 05:21 PM