California Dreaming

We interrupt this broadcast to bring you another update on the state of Mexico in London.  Ay yay yay yay, canta y no llores!  So goes the famous verse which literally means “sing, don’t cry.”  I’m trying. I really am.  Because Mexico is under fire over here.  Dangerously so.  It’s not that the food is too spicy.  I only wish.

This week freelance life took me to Islington, so I finally got a chance to try Tortilla opposite Angle tube station.  The sign outside promised California-Mexican cuisine.  That’s a big promise.  The only place that does Mexican better than Mexico is California.  The food there is so good, competition drives prices way down and £5 can get you a week’s worth of burritos. 

To me, the mark of a good burrito is good beans – beans that aren’t swimming in water but rather the thick sopa they’ve been marinating in.  So, when the guy asked “black or pinto?” I said to give me whichever they make best.  I got black beans, or rather black water with a few beans.  I’d hate to see what the pintos look like.

A few weeks ago, I took a chance on Mexicali in Notting Hill.  Both Mexicali and Tortilla claim to have the best burritos in town, which is of course impossible – they’d actually have to be burritos to begin with.  On a similar note, I should have walked the other way when I saw blueberry pancakes on the menu at Mexicali.  I love blueberry pancakes, but at a Mexican restaurant?  Still, having learned my lesson on first impressions, I forged ahead.   But as soon as I got inside, I knew.  Too fancy, too slick.  Here we go again.  Chilles rellenos (at an astounding £12) were drenched in cheese while the black beans, although creamy, were served in tiny froufrou pots.  Again, I like Mexican food that requires a bib, served in cheap and cheerful surroundings that scream fiesta.

For all this and more, Taqueria still wins with flying sombreros.  On my last visit the guava juice was fresh and frothy, the plantains were perfectly caramelised, I could stand a spoon in my beans and the tacos were turned out to a T.  The food keeps improving, so maybe next time they’ll surprise me with LA-style fish tacos and a lunch deal that’s really something special.  A girl can dream.

Tortilla is at 13 Islington High Street, N1 NLQ
Mexicali is at 147-149 Notting Hill Gate, W11 3LF
Taqueria is at 139-143 Westbourne Grove, W11 2RS
What do you say, amigos?  Let me know where you’ve been getting your "best" Mexican these days.

Comments

[Caitlin]

I love Taqueria and would go there for the horchata alone, though the tacos are pretty darn good too.

I like the burritos at Daddy Donkeys on Leather Lane too.

[binky]

Mexican offerings in London have improved a lot in the past few years, I think.
Wahaca is good: fresh, tasty, proper Mexican. In a Wagamama-like room. For not outrageous prices.
The best Mexican food in London is Mestizo. By miles.
El Vergel -- weekday lunch only, sadly, and in SE1, sadly, for me, as I no longer work anywhere near it -- is worth seeking out.
I haven't been in ages, but I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the food at Crazy Homies -- surprised because it's a Conran place, it's kitschy, it's more about drinking, and it's insanely small. But the little tacos and tostadas were fresh and light and tasty, proper Cali-Mex.

[Krista]

I still love Crazy Homies best.

This one just opened over in Westbourne Grove...
http://www.doshermanos.co.uk/2008/06/santo.html

[New Yorker in London]

I'm so glad to hear about all these Mexican possibilities that I've not yet tried. If you're in the neighborhood of Tortilla, however, I've found that Mucho Mas down the road (at 27 Upper Street) is a far better choice. Same setup, basically, as Tortilla but the beans are more flavorful and the meat much more tender. Both places remind me of Chipotle in the States, which is nothing to get excited about, I know. I would kill for a good fish taco! (I used to live in San Diego.)

[Natalia]

Hey Jess!

Yes, it's 1:43 in the morning but just got back from parties and cannot sleep. So thought I'd read your blog. Tonight I met the owner of Tortilla - Brandon and his lovely wife (whose name I cannot remember for the life of me but she was wearing a French Connection grey jersey t-shirt dress). Brandon is 35, originally from San Fran and moved to London 5 years ago to do an MBA. And he is so in love with London he thought he should show his appreciation for our grand city by opening up Tortilla. In Angel. And in August another one will open near the Tate Modern. And we, my dear, are going to the opening. Free Burritos for all! Very coinicidental that you just did a review of the same restaurant. I would like to do this review with you again so we shall visit all the Mexican restaurants. And I have coupons for free burritos and fajitas at Tortilla (courtesy of Mr. Brandon himself). Deal?? - you can see I'm tired because I'm rambling...good night!

[Londonrestaurant]

Agree with Binky (above) that Mestizo has the best Mexican food by a long way- the most interesting menu and well executed- have you tried it?

It doesn't fit your canteen style description, its fairly upmarket in feel but the prices don't reflect that, they are very reasonable.

Unfortunately there are a lot of caveats, will be writing up my most recent visit soon, but in essence the service is the worst I've had in a long time, just really hopeless, slow, disinterested.

Also, the cocktails were rubbish, just far too sweet and severely lacking alcohol.

I enjoyed Mucho Mas when I popped in for lunch, but am not often in Islington and that was a while back.

[Jess]

Thanks for all the great comments; I knew this one would stir the pot. I tried Mestizo when it first opened over three years ago (before this blog was born), and I do recall being pleasantly surprised. Crazy Homies is still on the list, as is Mucho Mas.
Keep the comments coming!

[kira]

ah! at last! i've been in need of a post like this, my friends and i have been dying for authentic, yummy mexican. will have to try your rec's.

also, i tag thee, ms. krista. : )

http://flamelikeme.blogspot.com/2008/06/gewd-fewd.html

[kira]

i'm an asshat. JESSICA. i was thinking 'krista in london' blog whilst i typed that. whoooooo.

[Daniel]

Crazy Homies was a big disappointment. I tried it out last summer, and the food was appalling. My friend had to send back her shrimp tostada because it tasted like it had gone off. My enchilada was greasy and bland. The posh girl serving us seemed utterly disinterested and spent most of her time flirting with the barman.

Almost all of my other Mexican experiences in London have been equally bad. The best I've had is Exquisite on Blackstock Road, N4. I've been loads of times, as I used to live round the corner, and still go back when I attend Arsenal matches. It's run by Eastern Europeans (Slovakian, I think), and is certainly not authentic. Nevertheless, the food is very fresh and the burritos are tasty (although very different from what you would get in Mexico or Cali). Worth a look, anyway.